So what is a round house, or earthhouse (图楼tulou in Chinese)? They are earthen dwellings meant to house whole families, even whole clans in some cases. The Hakka people were migrants form other parts of China and were not welcomed by the local people. So for safety they lived together in these fort- like homes...even with their own wells inside. They are made from rammed earth reinforced with bamboo and held together with glutinous rice! In Fujian province there are over 10,000 of these dwellings in all shapes and sizes, some with interior buildings. I happen to think they are quite beautiful to look at. Back in December the university had taken us on a field trip to see some. We decided to book a minibus to take Don and Laura and the kids to Hakka country, along with a couple of friends, out to see some of the most famous tulou --about 3 hours from Xiamen in the Yongding and Nanjing districts of Fujian province. The Fuxing castle (above) is the largest tulou still standing...build in the 1600s and able to house 400 people! Each family would have their own room in the tulou....
While a lot of people have moved from this clan to the city to work, they return for holidays to the village.
This woman showed Helen how to draw the water from the well,
And how to wash the clothes by hand, which amazed the girls.
I just love all the arches and angles in this tulou--great for photography (and great that Aunt Laura with her fine camera was here to record some of it!) The main reason I wanted to bring our family here was to show them a bit of life in rural China. And I find the architecture more interesting than just visiting a village. Chinese tourists don't really come here -- they don't understand why we would be so interested.
Our next stop was the Tianluokeng tulou cluster..a small settlement with 5 tulou close together amidst terraced rice paddies.
Our whole group except for Laura behind the camera..the extras are Mike, an American classmate of mine, and Alex Li, one of my teachers from the Overseas College.
The farm work is done by hand with animals here as in many parts of China. Wheat farming (in the north east and central parts of China) is slowly becoming more mechanized but rice is still labor intensive.
To me this looks like a man enjoying his vacation! No banana trees in Denver, I guess!
Tea growing on the hill sides--the best teas are grown at the top of mountains...this is more my level of tea, on a little hill!
This is a much smaller tulou, actually oval shaped, with few interior structures, but a big working and living space in the courtyard surrounded by many rooms.
The girls were invited to drink some tea -- it was actually quite good tea, but I have to stop buying tea everywhere I go -- I have a ton!
Plenty of animals around too, including the universal sight of a napping cat!
Nick bought a hat off someone for 5 kuai, so then everyone wanted one!
These are tiny plums drying in the sun...
And the tiny lady who was selling them along with other snacks.
In the village was a Daoist temple. At first we thought it was locked, but Michael was persistent and we got inside.
The interior of a square tulou -- quite common and easier to build.
And we finish off with Helen and some goslings...
That's the best of my photos while the Coloradans were here --. On their last two days in Xiamen we laid pretty low -- to the beach and shopping downtown. They have arrived safely in Xi'an and some friends of our there have set them up with a driver and student to show them around.
Now that their visit is over, the countdown to leaving really begins...we have some good bye parties/birthdays to plan and A LOT of sorting and packing to do over the next month. I am happy that another Fulbright family will be coming to Xiamen (with three kids!) and maybe I can leave them some useful items vs. throwing them away are trying to find a home for them.
The goodbyes are already beginning. Thomas's best friend is leaving school early and will be gone before Thomas's birthday party, which he is disappointed about. And every time we did something with the family last week I wondered...am I doing this for the last time?!?!?
Today is our wedding anniversary, and I of course must mention my wonderful husband of 16 years! Can't believe it has been that long...and how fortunate we are to have each other on this adventure...
3 comments:
Ann & all,
It's been fun keeping up with you in China. Now's the time to prepare for the re-entry... it's much more difficult that I ever expected, even though we lived there a much shorter time than you will have.
We still miss the 3 kuai bubble tea ($5.49 Starbucks isn't the same), and the 3 kuai bags of jiaozi. walking everywhere, no matter how hot it is outside; the sense of accomplishment in trying out a new phrase in an unfamiliar language and having someone actually understand you!; having a new experience literally every day; and a much less hurried pace, no matter what the activity.
Maybe others can add their thoughts, but my advice is to be patient and take enough time to readjust - don't try to jump back into American life too fast. I pulled out the pictures a lot, and commisserated with our friends from China frequently over those first few months back home.
I never expected culture shock to work both ways.
Enjoy your last weeks in Xiamen, and I look forward to chatting in person when next we're in the same city.
Best wishes,
The Andersons in Philly
Ann, Michael, Thomas, Helen & Sophia,
We are eagerly awaiting you here at home in Buffalo. We have our own countdown and it's less than a month till we see you home safe and sound. We'll be all ears and can't wait to hear more of your adventures.
love,
Kate, Kush, Emmett, Rumiz & Kareem
So i love all the pictures and the commentary is great i just thought i might point out that my mother is in fact in the picture and my dad seems to be MIA. I just thought you should know my dad is behind the camera (which is a very rare occurrence). But i love the blog!!!
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