Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Lijiang --our Shangri-la


Here is our little home in Lijiang, emphasis on the little...but the inn is in a fantastic historic part of Lijiang called Old Town. Block after block of narrow winding alleys and traditional architecture.

This is our courtyard with Helen in our doorway. I was really happy to find the place scrupulously clean -- quite a treat for 3 star accommodations in China, and only $50 a night including high speed internet in our room. So you will be hearing from me after all.

A little about Lijiang -- it is in the far northwestern part of Yunnan, not far from the Myanmar border. It is in a valley which has always been a crossroads between the Tibetan plateau, Myanmar and the rest of China. As we flew in , we saw a lot of snow capped peaks which surround the valley. If you want to stretch it a bit, which we are happy to do, you could call these the foothills of the Himalayas. We're hoping to see them up close later in the week after adjusting to the altitude. The Shangri-la reference is based on James Hilton's novel, "Lost Horizons" which I bought last night in a book shop. About 4 Chinese cities claim to be the inspiration for the book, and one was even renamed Shangri-la by the provincial government. Lijiang's claim is flimsy, but since I am here and not there, I'll take it.

The streets of the Old Town are a delight. It does all seem a little bit staged for tourists, but really well-done --the kind of tourist place that makes you glad you are a tourist. And since its winter, its not too crowded. And Sophia would like you to know that there are PONIES in the streets.

Thomas even took a ride and posed in the guy's giant furry hat.

Helen had to have a turn, too.

We had some Yunnan coffee on a balcony overlooking the square, and some local dancers began down below. Check the video, if you can.


This area is the historic home of the Naxi people. Their weaving and crafts are in shops all over, and they have their own written language, Dongba, which is the only known pictographic language still in use. I bought Thomas a Dongba dictionary yesterday, so we'll get him to blog about it.

The architecture of the Old Town has been preserved and maintained with lots of money from UNESCO. In the late 1990s, an earthquake destroyed much of Lijiang. But the traditional Naxi buildings withstood the quake - only the modern buildings were damaged. So traditional style ones were built in their place, enlarging the old neighborhood and ensuring a steady flow of money to preserve it. Architecturally its stunning.

We strolled around a bit yesterday, although we were tired and had lugged our bags all the way across the Old Town, because the cab dropped us at the wrong gate (no cars are allowed in). A fellow tourist, Chinese guy fluent in English, helped us find our way. Every one is so friendly here, we have met some nice people from all over the world, including a California family who now lives in Shanghai.

This woman was sure that her demonstration proving that her silver was real (that's a blow torch she is holding) was going to get me to buy a $25 silver bracelet, but I wasn't ready to commit -- did get Helen a ring there which she is treasuring, but I fear will be lost this week...

Love all the local costumes, though some are a bit elaborate.

More tomorrow.....

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