Friday, May 23, 2008

Yongzhou trip


We traveled by bus from Guilin/Yangshuo area (which turned out to be a lot longer bus ride than you might think from looking at a map -- over 5 hours for under 200 kilometers-- because we stopped in every small town and there was a traffic tie up (typical of bus travel in China, by the way).


We stayed at the Great Wall Hotel, which was fine, and met up with our guide, Oscar. The guide turned out to be just fine, very good English and good with the kids, although he didn't know much about the city, being from Changsha.

Here we are arriving at the orphanage.

There is a new director (new to me at least -- I think she has been on the job for 1-2 years). She is called Director Qiao. She has worked there for a long time in different capacities and was there when Helen was a baby (although not involved in baby care then). There are now very few of the old staff left, and in fact very few staff at Lengshuitan at all because there are now only 15 children there. The numbers of babies peaked in 2003 and has been falling, and now more of the infants are in foster care. We were a little disappointed not to meet any of Helen's ayis, or the nurse who accompanied her to Changsha for the adoption because the nurse is on maternity leave. We had brought a scrapbook made by one of our travel group families (Kathrin -- thanks!) and some other photos sent along from other group members. The business office staff and driver came in too to look at all the photos. They were especially interested in the ones of Helen in Xiamen, at school, the Forbidden City, Chinese New Year, etc. The director served fruit and showed us her office where lots of photos sent by adoptive parents were displayed under glass on her desk .



I am choosing not to post the photos from the inside of the orphanage, to honor the agreement we signed, but it was very interesting. We only saw a few rooms, but they included a play room , a baby room, and the room where Helen was cared for as a baby.

The staff told the baby, "here is your Jie Jie (older sister)"

The children's laundry..

The director and some staff accompanied us on a tour of the Lengshuitan district of Yongzhou. Above is the municipal building.

Some older style housing..

An apartment building..

They took us to the finding site described in Helen's paperwork. The Fenghuayuan Central Flowerbed turns out to be a monument to commemorate the area becoming an economic development zone under Deng Xiaoping. It was a busy area, with lots of people about, which I ws glad about.

Afterwards we took them to lunch. We ate some local dishes including Dong'An chicken, with a strong vinegar and ginger taste,

And Helen's favorite -- Wu gu feng deng : made from corn and duck egg yolk deep fried, topped with nuts -- delicious!



After lunch the restaurant presented Helen and Sophia with presents -- giant stuffed rats..pink ones!



We took the staff shopping to buy something to give the orphanage and picked a washing machine for the babies laundry.

Helen saying goodbye to Director Qiao.

The visit was smooth, everyone friendly and interested in the kids, Helen spoke a little Chinese, which pleased them and us. But I could hardly wait to get back to the hotel room to lock myself in the bathroom and have a good cry. Hard to explain. I think it was relief and also coming to grips with reality that there is so much we will not know about Helen's early life. I asked the director about whether she thinks the girls usually come from the country side or not. Helen's finding site is close to the railway station, which prompted me to ask. The director answered that maybe the babies born in the hospital and left behind might be from the city, but the rural preference for boys is much stronger now days than in the cities. So although we walked around Yongzhou for the rest of the afternoon, calling it Helen's hometown -- its probably not.

We spent most of our time at a playground on the river. There was a little carnival with a few rides and games, such as fishing for eels (!) So we did the 6 year old tour -- Helen liked this place so much we didn't leave until dinner time.


This is the Xiang River which runs through Yongzhou.

And here is the playground! A 6 year old's tour of the city would be incomplete without it!






Helen catching eels...

And the catch!

Thomas roller skating at the park...

We also spent time hanging around while Oscar went to get the bus tickets and once the locals figured out I spoke a little Chinese they had lots of questions. It pleased me to tell them that Helen was from this area and we had come back for a visit. It felt like an act of positive publicity for international adoption. Who knows...maybe some birth parent will hear by word of mouth about us and feel a little better about the decision they had to make.
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The next day we left early in the morning . On the bus ride on the way back to Guilin, it was a beautiful day, and we marveled at the beauty of the countryside of southern Hunan -- the rice fields are so green in the spring time that even though the mountains are not as impressive as Guangxi province to the south, it was a treat to drive through, although I could have done without stopping every few minutes to try and lure passengers onto the half empty bus-- negotiating the price at every stop!






It was a powerful but tiring weekend and we are glad to be back in Xiamen and back to regular life. No more traveling until we leave, I think!

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

Dear Ann, Michael, Thomas, Helen and Sophie,

It was emotional just reading your post and looking at the photos from the United States....I can only imagine in person. I look forward to the day we will be able to return as a family. Thank you for taking the photo album with you. I told Gary to give you lots of extra hugs from the girls and I here in the States. Thank You! Kay

Unknown said...

Ann,

Thanks for posting this here and in the YZ group. I so wish we could manage to visit next year when we're on the Panda tour, but it just doesn't seem feasible. Like you, I hate to let time pass and lose what few connections the girls may have had there. Things are changing so fast in China that there is no way for us to hold on to their pasts. It was also great to get the Mrs. Li/Qiao Xiao Cui thing straightened out. Lia called her "ma" and it about broke my heart to take Lia away from her.

Thanks again,
Patti

Anonymous said...

Wow, Ann. A very beautiful post and the comments are also moving. I wanted to hear more from you about the emotions of the visit, but I thoroughly understand not finding the words. It's incredible how committed you all are to helping Helen understand her roots and also to grow her wings. Lucky little girl, and I am sure you guys feel lucky too.

Love, Cara

Mikenjane said...

Dear Ann,

I just saw Terri Cryon today in Target with her new gorgeous daughter Lucy, now 2, from Guangxi. I hadn't seen her in years. She mentioned that she was reading your blog and that you had just been to Helen's SWI. That prompted my rusty memory; I had to rush home to read your post.

Helen looks wonderful, growing up to be so pretty. Her year in China really is agreeing with her.

Your rush of emotions after completing the visit is what I often feel even here in the States. The full circle of adoption between adoptive parents and birth parents encloses love but in Chinese adoption it also encloses so much that is unknown and we fear unknowable. I love seeing your photos because it brings China nearer.

Thanks so much for posting. You have many readers here following your journey, even if we don't always comment.

Love,
Jane

Anonymous said...

thank you so much for sharing your journey with us. My daughter was also found at the same steps in Feb of 2004. She is the joy of our lives, and we too hope to soon return to pick up her sister, and to show her her "home town". thank you. Debbi Keller Austin, Texas

Aminah XiuPing said...

I was just looking at your blog. My daughter was adopted from the same orphanage as your daughter. I was wondering if you had any pictures that might be of interest to us. I'm looking for pictures of the orphanage or of the #3 hospital. If you could email me I would apprectiate it.
foglek@sbcglobal.net
Karri

sk said...

Hello,
My name is Line, living in Oslo, Norway.
I found your blog when I googled my daughters orphanage and I recognised the lady manager. We never came to the orphanage, because we got our daugther in Changsha (March 2008).
If you have som pictures of the orphanage, do you think you could e-mail me? linekavli@hotmail.com
That would have been so kind of you!
On beforehand Yhanks a lot!

Line

Mia Shaffer said...

Hello, Ann!

I know I am about two years late leaving a post for your wonderfully documented trip to Yongzhou. I adopted my daughter from Yongzhou, Zhishan district SWI in 2001. I am just beginning to do some research on the best way to take her there sometime next year (2011). Do you have any advice on where I should begin?

Thank you so much - I really enjoyed reading about Helen's journey back - especially the eel fishing! :)

Mia Shaffer
mia.shaffer@att.net

Becky said...

Hi Ann...just read this blog post, I know it's from a long time ago, but I also have a daughter from that orphanage...we are planning a trip to China, but the cost to visit the orphanage officially is prohibitive (agency wants $1000 per person to transfer us from Guiling to Yongzhou, and get us in to orphanage!!)...so am thinking of doing what you did, minus the tour of the actual orphanage. I feel like there will not be many people there who were there when my daughter lived there in 2005, and would rather just see the town and her finding place, like you did. This is my long-winded was of asking you the same question someone did previously about whether you have any photos you would be willing to share privately, I would never share them with anyone else but would love to see the orphanage if possible...would love to hear from you if you are willing....beckyandcerys@gmail.com...thanks so much! Becky