Sunday, February 17, 2008

Beijing's Panjiayuan market and return to the Temple of Heaven



You know I am traveling when I manage two posts in the same day!
We headed out today by subway to find the Panjiayuan weekend market. We rode the new line that has just opened since the fall...and a lovely subway system it is too -- looking very ready for the Olympics -- clean and bilingual, although the automatic ticket system is not running yet and you still buy them from a person.

The market was everything I hoped it would be and more... we started in the furniture aisle -- sighing deeply over the furniture we have no room for since we are committed to not shipping anything..here is Michael in the Tibetan shop admiring a helmet..

I wanted this box with the Tibetan script on it but contented myself with a photo..Thomas bought a chess set (a carved wooden one) from these guys for $9

The mark up was incredible -- the opening price was triple for the same item I had purchased in Xiamen -- when I told him that in Chinese -- immediate 200% price cut! I was pretty satisfied with my bargaining today. I have learned that the key is to not be too attached to the item and be willing to walk away -- then the vendor will follow you and seal the deal at the last price, usually. The market was not real busy, which helped, I think..when there are a lot of foreigners there throwing money around, it is probably harder to bargain.

More Cultural revolution art -- someone asked me if I bought any -- I never would, because while it is curious, as a lover of China, I find it too painful to look at...I think this art was not only permitted at the time -- but even encouraged as part of the total brainwashing approach...

More to my taste -- these period gowns..quite amazing up close..

In the Tibetan aisle we made some friends of the vendors, who are from Tibet and come to the market to sell goods. They were taken with the kids and we stopped to talk -- they let Thomas blow this enormous horn...takes two photos to capture it.

It made a sound like a dying yak, only louder -- I think it is some kind of call to prayer, but must admit that it looks more like a Dr. Seuss creation to me. Of course our "friends" were determined to sell us one -- not easy to put that in the luggage!

There were so many fun things to look at..of course many are replicas, but we still bought what we liked -- Thomas some more old coins and an arrow head, Helen some more glass beads and I found an antique marionette -- just what I had been wanting..(see below for his trip to the Temple of Heaven). I had been to the Temple of Heaven in August with just Sophia. Since we were not far away, we grabbed some lunch and hopped a quick cab there..I just love the refurbished detail work --the phoenix and the dragon are the emperor's symbols, and the Temple of Heaven was the place where the Emperor would come to worship, give thanks for good harvests, etc.


It is an unmistakable sight..and ready to receive hordes of Olympic tourists -- since I was there last they installed ramps for wheel chairs throughout many places in the complex -- which was a big shock to me, as I have not seen that anywhere in China, and as a stroller driver, I appreciate it!

Helen and Thomas had fun running wild on the grounds. Looking a bit barren to our eyes used to the tropical winter..

Here he is -- my new puppet getting a ride in the stroller from Sophia..He has a wooden head and hands/feet and some handsome robes.

A full day, and as we arrived back at the hotel we met up with our friends who are also here for the conference and had a feast nearby with lots of eggplant and beer...stay tuned for the rest of the week's fun.

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